Too tight, of corset is! - corsets 101


Corsets have been around for hundreds of years, but have experienced a surge in popularity recently, especially within the pinup and burlesque communities.  But it’s not all about pinups and dancers, corsets are for anyone who is interested and I do recommend that you give them a go, as I'm sure you love the shape they create.  I think of corsets as magical, as it will not only make your silhouette smooth and shapely, but they improve your posture and confidence.
My obsession with corsetry started on my 18th birthday, with a gift from my Mumma; it was a Gallery Serpentine Edwardian over bust, full steel boned, finished in black brocade fabric.  This corset was not cheap plastic, it was a solid investment that I had it for over a decade before passing it onto a new loving home.  I am a seasoned corset lover, who took wearing a corset from my darker gothic side, into a more soft and elegant look perfect for pinup.
Before you buy a corset, you need to do some research and be informed of the basics; in this article I will share some of my knowledge and experience with corsetry.  

The Sadie dress without a corset

What do you want from a corset?

 

Basic reduction – an over bust corset worn as a top, or an under bust teamed with a blouse, anything from a basic corset through to a quality steel boned corset will be suitable pending how much reduction you want.
Performance corsets – think about how much use you will get from this piece, Is it to unique it will only work for one act? can it be embellished to change the appearance to make it more versatile. Keep in mind, you need a corset that will be easy to remove, so you are not going to tie as tight as waist training, unless you can unlace quickly and elegantly.  If you're just starting out a cheap plastic corset, or a cheap basic steel boned corset will work and consider a zipper front for easy removal.  
Huge reduction – if you’re after huge reduction you need to invest in a good quality steel boned corset to wear under or over your clothing to give the illusion of a nipped waist, I would recommend a skin colored or black under bust waspie or gusset corset.
Waist training – be prepared, as you will need multiple corsets, as your waist reduces you'll need to size down.  I recommend starting with cheap basic steel boned under bust corsets (Orchard Corset are perfect for affordable starter steel boned corsets) then move into a higher quality waspie once you reach goal reduction.

What are the advantages of over bust? under bust?  In my experience, I recommend under bust if you have a larger bust or don’t want any bust reduction, this way you don’t experience the “Picasso boob”.  Over bust are better suited for ladies who want to enhance their bust or when a corset is worn alone as a top.
The Sadie dress with a corset

Tight lacing/waist training


If you endeavour to do either of these, please be safe as there are risks. DO NOT drink any fizzy drinks for 24 hours prior to tight lacing, otherwise you risk serious damage to your internal organs.  Never tight lace so much that it restricts your breathing.  All corsets must be “broken in”, lace up comfortably (with assistance if you can), wait 30 minutes to an hour, and then lace tighter again.  You will find once your body had had time to warm to the corset, you will get even more reduction.

Corset Sizing


If you’re after a good quality steel boned corset for reduction, you want a corset that it 4-6 inches smaller than your natural waist.  You need to measure the smallest point of your waist and keep the tape measure tight but comfortable; all corsets are sized in inches, according to your waist size.  For example, I have a natural waist of 30” and usually wear anything from a 22-26” corset. 

Budget


Plastic corsets (or tube tops as I call them) are around $10-40 they offer no real reduction and will give you no shape but great for changing acts for performers.  Quality steel corsets are a lifelong quality investment and can range from $150 plus.

Corset care


Corsets are not machine washable due to the steel boning, so the best way to keep them clean is to always wear a liner underneath (which will absorb sweat and stop lacing burn - granny pants are perfect for this), spot clean as necessary, and always air out over the back of a chair for 24 hours after wearing.  When storing your corset I recommend folding the corset in half, then gently wrap the lacing around the outside, and place inside a corset bag (or any fabric bag).

 What Katie did

What Katie did – Gingham steel boned waspie under bust
If you haven’t heard of “What Katie Did”, they are a UK based company specialising in reproduction vintage lingerie.  This corset is one I have owned for quite a few years, it was purchased second hand for about $150au from Bernie Dexter, and is a size 20” (as you can see from the photo below, its about 2-3" too small for me).  This corset is a waspie with internal waist tape, which is perfect for maximum waist reduction.  Waspie corsets dramatically bring in the centre of the waist, but don’t have as much reduction in the hip area (as you can see it just covers my hips).  This is perfect to wear under clothing to nip in that waist and accentuate the hourglass figure.  It’s a cotton blend so is easy to keep clean, and allows the skin to breath.
What Katie did – Gingham steel boned waspie under bust

Dark Muse Corsetry

Dark Muse Corsetry – Black satin, gored hips, steel boned under bust corset
Dark Muse Corsetry was an Australian company based in NSW.  They were world famous for their signature gusted corsets with gored hips and Edwardian/gothic couture bridal wear.  This was a perfect basic corset which can be worn under or over garments, this one cost around $150au new.  The unique design of the gusseted corsets, accommodates for your hips, so offers less reduction in the hip area to give hips a curved shape, and more in the waist (but not as much as a waspie).  Perfect for subtle and comfortable reduction.  The satin fabric is a bit more delicate than your usual cotton corset, but gives off a lovely shine so is perfect over garments, for lingerie photo shoots, or for performance.  You can still find their corsets occasionally listed on ebay.
Dark Muse Corsetry – Black satin, gored hips, steel boned under bust corset

Orchard Corset

Orchard Corset – CS-201 Mesh wasp corset
Orchard Corset are an American company specialising in mid-range priced light steel boned corsets.   This review is on the mesh wasp under bust corset which retails for around $75us.   This corset in the mesh material is best to be worn over clothing; I personally found that the boning at the sides poked out in the mesh design as the material is not as structured as cotton or satin materials.  In a cotton material I would say this corset is perfect for beginner waist training as it also has the waist tape reinforcement to create the hourglass figure.  Still it’s a beautiful corset worn on its own, or over a dress for the peek-a-boo effect through the mesh, and when not fully tight laced sits quite well.  Please note, I would recommend sizing down a size in this corset as the mesh does have some stretch.
Orchard Corset – CS-201 Mesh wasp corset

Sweet Carousel Corsetry

Sweet Carousel Corsetry – Fatale VI Skeleton rib cage corset with plunge bust line
Sweet Carousel Corsetry is a Canadian based couture corset company, a one woman show, ran by designer Elise.  Priding herself on designing corsets for every woman, in all shapes, and sizes by offering four different corset hip shapes, and four different bust shapes means the possibilities are endless.  This review is for the Fatale VI, retailing for around $400us for the base model, but let me say, it’s a worthy investment and worth every cent!  I got the plunge bust line, as I am quite busty and find it very difficult to wear any over bust corsets without squashing the ladies.  The plunge boning is structured to have shape alike to cups, to hold and lift your bust, without any squish.  I also chose the low hip to ensure full coverage of the hips to stop “quad hip” (where a corset is not long enough causing the illusion that you have four hips).  The design incorporates a high back, to stop “quad back” or “spillage” making this corset very structured, while still being comfortable.  The inside is lined in lovely lilac cotton to allow breath ability, while the outside is a smooth thick satin with PVC rib cage detail.  This corset may seem pricey, but it’s a corset that's unique, and the structure, materials and design, make it a corset that’s worth every cent.
Sweet Carousel Corsetry – Fatale VI Skeleton rib cage corset with plunge bust line
These are just some of my favourite corset companies, be sure to tell them that Bettie Butcher sent you!

Credits

Original article published in Adore Pinup Magazine
Photography by Lexi Vegas (Brisbane, Aust)
Dress is “Sadie” by Powderpuff Boutique (Aust)
Earrings by Stardust Confetti

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